Friday, July 28, 2023

Things I Will Miss about Taiwan

It's not even the last week of MISTI Taiwan, but I already know what I will miss about Taiwan. There are too many things to list. I look forward to returning to MIT because I miss the Charles, the four seasons, Boston, and the people at MIT. I simply can't have the best of both worlds, as much as I wish. After I graduate, I plan to stay in the U.S. I don't see myself living in Asia after graduation unless I am working at an international company and the pay is similar to the U.S. I have adjusted to life in Taiwan, but I guess life in the U.S. is more comfortable for me. 

The various things I will miss about Taiwan can be divided into the following categories: food, people, culture, everyday life, and language. 

Food 
Food in the U.S. isn't bad per se, but as a college student, I eat on a budget in the U.S., which means eating the same cooked lunch six days in a row (not that it has to be like that, but it's cheaper and easier), eating the same breakfast of oatmeal and apples, finding free food if possible, you get the idea. In Taiwan, however, I can buy something different every day for lunch and dinner partly because of the number of options and how cheap the food is relative to the U.S. I am going to miss the simple things that people in Taiwan find to be ordinary, whether it is freshly made rice milk in the local breakfast shop or eating passion fruit. Some things don't exist in the U.S., or if they do, they aren't easy to find.  

There are yummy things in the U.S. for sure, but I think what makes food in Taiwan more meaningful to me is the memories it carries, especially ones of my childhood as I lived here before. Tofu pudding makes me think of the local shop I ate at after dinner with my family. The ginger taste that lingers on my tongue after drinking sweet potato soup reminds me of my mom's cooking in Taiwan. Also, it makes me feel more connected to my cultural identity, as Taiwanese cuisine has a lot of overlap with Chinese cuisine. There's this sense of feeling rooted and secured to a place, I suppose, which I don't quite feel as much in the U.S. 

People 
I really appreciate the warmth and friendly nature of the Taiwanese. My lab mates are quiet, but if I have a question, they are happy to help me. The people I encounter in public whether it is the 7-11 cashier or the train station manager are very approachable and are happy to help. I find it amusing that the first question some of them ask me is where I am from because my accent is obviously not Taiwanese. Maybe it is because I am a foreigner, but the people here are pretty curious about life in the U.S. and ask a lot of questions. The service here is excellent, whether it is my experience on the airplane or exchanging currency at the mall. They know how to do hospitality well. 

My brain is probably biased, but I feel like I notice more conversations with store owners and customers here versus in the U.S. There are lots of franchise shops in Taiwan, but there are also a lot of family-owned businesses like restaurants that have lasted for decades and are still running. I really like seeing these interactions because it reminds me of how frequent small encounters over time can build up to something quite nice. I wish I saw this more in shops in the U.S. Perhaps I need to look more carefully next time. 

Culture 
One cool thing about living in Taiwan is the coexistence of old traditions and modernity, which I don't experience that much in the U.S. Some people may find embracing old traditions to go against or contradict modern life, but I disagree. For instance, a lot of people still go to the temple to pray and burn incense. In night markets and some streets, there are some people who do fortune-telling by analyzing your Chinese name or using a "God bird." I just find it nice that some cultural and religious traditions have endured for thousands of years. 

As someone who strongly values my cultural identity, coming to Taiwan was very beneficial in teaching me various aspects of Chinese culture, whether it was looking at Chinese art in the National Palace Museum or walking around the Lin Family Garden. Being immersed in this environment definitely made me practice my reading, speaking, and writing skills more, which I barely use in the U.S. When I was in the U.S., I was concerned that I was forgetting my roots and culture, so I was happy to come to Taiwan because I viewed the trip as a pilgrimage to learn more things about my culture. 

Likewise, it is nice that traditional Chinese holidays are celebrated here. Unfortunately, my time in Taiwan is only for the summer, so I can't go to the Pingxi Lantern Festival or other holiday events. In late June, however, I got to see the Dragon Boat Festival for the first time and it was fun seeing how they held the boat race. 

Everyday Life 
This one is hard to explain, but I think I will miss some intangible parts of life in Taiwan that I can't quite articulate. It's hard to describe it to someone unless one gets a glimpse of my life here, which consists of walking the same alley from the apartment to the lab, passing by the local shops, etc. Taipei is indeed a busy city, as there are tons of major technology companies near where I live (HP, Intel, IBM, etc.), yet I feel like the pace of life in Taipei can also be slower if one chooses such a pace. Perhaps it has to do with where I live, but it's nice to see the elderly doing their morning exercise in the park, parents talking outside the tutoring center, children on bikes, etc. On the other hand, living in MIT feels much busier and the separation of work life and personal life isn't as obvious. 

I will also miss the stores here, even the stores I never went inside. There's this atmosphere that is distinct, whether it is hearing Taiwanese songs in the local dumpling shop or seeing a cat calmly sitting on the counter of a books and coffee shop. In other words, I will miss the essence. 

Language 
Unlike Mandarin spoken in Mainland China, Mandarin in Taiwan has some slight differences. It's nice to hear the local dialect (Taiwanese, which is based on Hokkien) in daily conversations because it makes a place feel more local, if that makes any sense. Kind of like how in the U.S. there are slight differences in accents and words depending on which region you are in, such as the Midwest or the South. 

I don't know any Hokkien, but I picked up a few words, such as pai sei, which is the same as saying sorry, but in a context where saying sorry isn't for something serious. Think of pai sei in Mandarin as 不好意思 (bu hao yi si), a word someone would say if they felt embarrassed for causing a mistake or extra trouble. On a less serious note, I also understood why some local Taiwanese swear words in Mandarin are pronounced the way they are. You can search them up on the internet if you are curious, but essentially they sound very similar to the Hokkien pronunciation. 

I guess this could fall under the people category, but there's something about the Taiwanese accent I like. Their pronunciation of certain sounds like zh/ch/sh isn't accurate, but it's the distinctness that makes a place feel more unique. One thing I noticed is that the people here speak more gently and soft, which I also like. 

I think something that I will miss most in terms of the language ties in with the culture. In Taiwan, I learned that instead of referring to my older lab colleagues (postdocs, research associates, technicians) by their first name, it is better to call them 學姐 (xue jie) for a woman and 學長 (xue zhang) for a man. I can't find a good translation of 學姐, but it's literally "school sister." For 學長, the Oxford English-Chinese dictionary gives me "fellow student." Here, people call their PIs 老師, which is "teacher." It is considered rude to call someone older by their first name, which is very different from the U.S. as the purpose of calling a PI or older person by their first name is to come off as less intimidating. Personally, I like the culture of calling older people by a formal title because it is a way to show respect and admiration. 

Somehow, it feels endearing when older people in public here call me 妹妹 (mei mei), from the hairdresser to a lady sitting next to me at the bus stop. In Chinese, 妹妹 means little sister. Obviously, I am not related to them by blood, yet the term is comforting to hear. Typically, people call young women in their 20s to 30s 小姐(xiao jie), which is the equivalent of Miss. I guess I am not considered old enough to be called 小姐, as some people probably think of me as an awfully big kid, which is fine with me. While it is common for people to use the word 小姐 in Taiwan, in Mainland China, it is considered rude because it is a euphemism for "prostitute." Therefore, one should use 姑娘 (gu niang). Going back to the subject, I am going to miss these small things in Taiwan. I don't know why, but I actually wish I heard more of this in the U.S.

Conclusion 
I am not sure how to conclude this blog post, but all I want to say is that there are so many facets of Taiwan I am going to miss. I think the nostalgia will be less compared to the time I moved from Taiwan to the U.S. because I also miss some aspects of MIT life, but I will still think back to these random moments of this summer. I wish I had an answer as to when will be the next time I can visit Taiwan, but I don't know. Hopefully sometime in the near future. 

Wednesday, July 19, 2023

Things in Taiwan that the U.S. Should Have

It is my second month living in Taipei, and there are some things about Taiwan that I really wish existed in the U.S., from the awesome street food to the public transportation here. Of course, there are some things in the U.S. that I like that I can't find in Taiwan, like English books in bookstores and libraries, but there are some things about Taiwan that I will truly miss when I head back to campus. 

Convenience Stores 

Convenience stores in Taiwan are one of the greatest inventions of mankind. In a small store, a lot of essential items are packed in one place, whether it is your favorite snack or a raincoat you need last minute. They don't waste extra space selling things people don't need, as too many choices can lead to decision paralysis. I really appreciate how well-organized the convenience stores are, as no signage is needed. 

Besides the standard food and drinks, convenience stores also sell some personal health goods like sunscreen and basic office supplies like pens. If the convenience store has extra space, they have a couple of tables for you to sit and relax, which is very nice if you are waiting somewhere for a while or the weather is bad outside and you have nowhere to go, or you just want to eat some soft serve ice cream with your friend while waiting for the bus. The convenience store is a safe haven during the hot summers because you can walk in, linger around for five minutes to cool down, then go outside again. 

An interesting thing about the convenience stores here is that they are open 24/7, even during typhoons. So if you want to pull an all-nighter outside for some reason, consider staying in a convenience store. If you are sad after a breakup and it's midnight and you have nowhere to go, go to Family Mart (this is based on J.J. Lin's music video for She Says, not real life). There is literally a convenience store every 250 meters or so, the most common ones being 7-11 and Family Mart. I don't really have a strong preference for either two, but I do have fond memories of this big Family Mart near my bilingual school as there was some nice seating and a patio. 

While there are 7-11s in the U.S., it's a different vibe from the ones in Taiwan. There are pharmacies like CVS and Walgreens that sell snacks and drinks, but there's something about the small, compact, and warm nature of convenience stores in Taiwan that I like more. 

This Insider article does a good job explaining why Taiwan 7-11s are much better than American ones. 

Food Courts 

If I had to rank the food courts in the U.S., I would give them a 5/10. And I am already being fairly generous with my ratings. Some of the factors behind this rating are biased, of course, as I like eating Chinese food or Asian food more than Western food. But some of it is also objective. 

You see, if you go to a food court in a suburban mall in America or in an airport or train station, the options feel somewhat limited. These places may have good dining options, but they tend to be expensive and sit-in restaurants. There's the standard fast food like Mcdonald's or KFC that sell unhealthy, low-quality food. On the other hand, some chains are healthier, like Chipotle and Sweetgreen. From my experience, the food is ok, but I wouldn't say delicious. And the prices are nowadays at least $10 for a meal. For instance, when I went to the Moynihan Train Hall in New York's Penn Station, the only food vendors I was ok with were Chopt and a falafel shop. Part of it is my problem because I am kind of picky. The other options were burgers, pizza, sushi, or ramen, but I wasn't very into those options. 

In the Taiwan food courts, there is an abundance of options. My experience here has been pretty positive, whether it was at Taipei Main Station or Taipei 101. The malls also do a wonderful job. Each food stall specializes in one thing, such as noodles or vegetarian food. If you don't like the first twenty options you see, you at least might like one of the last five you walk by. Another huge plus is that the food tastes better and is priced quite well. A nice thing is that a lot of the shops sell a set meal that includes a starch (white rice or noodles), vegetables on the side, a meat or veg protein, and soup. Therefore, you aren't going to worry where's your daily source of fiber or veggies. 

If you take a look at the links and compare the American ones with the Taiwanese ones, then I think you get the idea. 

Another cool thing about the food courts in Taipei is that some are right next to the MRT station exits. For example, one exit of Taipei City Hall leads you to the basement of Uni-Style Mall, and if you walk an extra minute, you reach the basement of the Eslite Mall. The underground tunnel system here is amazing and I don't think I have encountered this in the U.S. as much, probably because the Taipei MRT system is younger than the NYC Subway. If you are hungry on your commute and want to take a break, just exit the station and walk for two minutes. There are also lots of souvenir/gift stores and a diverse range of drink options like coffee and tea. 

Boba Shops 

I already covered a lot about food above under food courts, but I will just say it is amazing to get your standard pearl milk tea with boba for under $60 NT ($2 USD). The fruit teas here are also amazing, with prices as low as $45 NT ($1.50 USD). The low price is honestly the only reason I am much more willing to drink boba once a week instead of say once a month, which isn't probably the best for my health but oh well I only have 80 days in Taiwan. The density of boba shops is so high here that it's insane, unlike us MIT students that only have a lonely Tea-Do in a 1-mile radius. 

Transportation 

I kind of touched upon how the metro here does a good job connecting exits to underground malls, but I haven't quite described the experience of commuting here. For context, I live on the border of the city, which means that the closest MRT station for me is the Nangang Exhibition Center, which is the last station on the blue line (eastern most). Fortunately, my lab is a ten-minute walk, so I only commute if I plan to explore the city or eat a meal with some MIT friends in the center of the city. 


Where I am for reference 

The walk to the MRT station is 15 minutes for me, but if I am in a rush, there's Youbike, which is much easier to dock and lighter compared to Bluebikes. Each ride is $5 NT, which rounds to 17 cents (1 USD is around 30 NT). If the weather's bad, there are like 6 buses I can take, which means an average wait time of five minutes. Each bus route is different, but for a decent chunk of the route, it's the same thing as they follow some major roads. Therefore, it doesn't really matter which bus I take if I am going from my lab to the MRT station, as the path is following a road from south to north. What I like about the buses here is that each station has a live indicator of the wait time, which sadly doesn't exist in Boston. 

My experience riding the MRT here has also been very positive. The floors are spotless, partly because people actually follow the rule of no eating or drinking in the subway cars. The stations are also pretty clean because of the janitors and each station has bathrooms. The wait time is on average 1-2 minutes on weekdays, and on weekends 2-3 minutes. Delays are pretty rare here, which is another plus. 

Night Markets and Food Stalls 

There are so many food stalls here that it's great, usually located near exits of MRT stations or near some major intersection. Some sell local desserts, while others sell quick meals or drinks like juice or tea. I wish this was more of a thing in the U.S., especially food stalls that are still active at night cause sometimes I get hungry after dinner. 

The night market culture here is a unique aspect of Taiwan's nightlife. Even on weekdays at 9 PM, there are tons of people lining up for food and the night markets can feel pretty crowded. While it is true that food safety and quality aren't going to be the same as what you would find in restaurants, the experience is quite fun. The whole stretch of the night market is around 400-500 meters, so it takes a while to walk through the whole thing because of the slow pace. Like the food courts I described, there are so many options in the night markets that if you were to eat everything you wanted in a single meal, you probably wouldn't need to eat for another day. 

Some night market food in Taiwan can be found in Chinatowns in the U.S. like beef noodles or xiaolongbao, but there are some things I don't see that often in the U.S. or are almost nonexistent, especially oyster omelettes and peanut ice cream wraps. I can go on and on about how eating a peanut ice cream wrap in the Shilin night market was one of the most mind-blowing experiences in my life. I am not exaggerating when I say that. Essentially, there's a crepe-like wrap with two scoops of Taiwanese ice cream (more like sorbet versus dairy), with shavings of peanut on top of the ice cream. Sometimes, people add cilantro to the wrap. If I talked about each food I ate here (aiyu jelly, taro balls, wheel cakes, etc.) that I enjoyed, then this blog post would be too long, so I will stop here. 

And can I just add one last thing about how awesome it is that the Michelin guide here reviews street food and restaurants under a $10 budget? I wonder when Boston will have its own Michelin guide... 



Top: taro and sweet potato balls. Bottom: Fu Hang Soy Milk (Michelin bib gourmand!) 

Conclusion 

I didn't expect this blog post to be so long, but basically, a lot of things that I will miss about Taiwan is the food. Besides the food, I will also miss how nice the public transportation system is here. I just can't have the best of both places, unfortunately.